Lecce is sometimes referred to as the Florence of the South.
I can see why. Of course, it is not Florence, but it does have a certain charm. Lecce is also smaller, but it has equally beautiful squares and Baroque architecture. The old town is particularly beautiful. The basilica, the Roman theatre, Palazzo dei Celestini, the charming alleys and terraces. Here too, they seem to be suffering from overtourism, just like in Rome, Barcelona, Pisa, etc.
Of course, we are also a small part of the problem. But we travel independently and are no ‘cruise tourists’ who only visit the planned or sponsored venues. We love to have warm interactions with the local people.
Almost every church we passed had a wedding service. Each one was more colourful and glamorous than the other. There were lots of beautiful flowers, proud parents and happy faces. Saturday is apparently a popular day to get married, also in Italy.
We were fortunate that we were allowed to visit the basilica just before a wedding ceremony, after paying for an entrance ticket.
An added bonus was the pleasant temperature inside. With the sun shining outside and temperatures reaching 30°C, this cool respite was more than welcome.
The façade of the basilica was richly decorated and beautifully renovated.
The nave’s vaulted ceiling is covered with a richly decorated wooden coffered ceiling with 17th-century goldwork and a painting.
The “radiant” statue of Christ above the altar caught the eye from afar.
Walking through the streets of Lecce, you immediately understand why it is called the Florence of the South and why the city is considered as one of the capitals of Baroque architecture. All of this made possible by the exceptional malleability of the local limestone, known as ‘Lecce stone’.
Just pop into a local sculptor’s studio or gallery. You’ll see an abundance of modern sculptures made from ‘Lecce stone’. Because the stone is so easy to work with, you’ll see the craziest things.
We meandered through several charming streets from the basilica, passing the Teatro Romano, to the cathedral.
The cathedral is wonderful but what appealed me the most was the crypt dedicated to the virgin Mary.
The crypt breathes an intimate and sacred atmosphere. The floor with glazed majolica tiles decorated with geometric and floral motifs, dating back to the late 1800s, combined with the 54 illuminated columns is beautiful. There are multiple tombs from rich local families the one of Saint Orontius, the patron Saint of Lecce. I can’t exactly describe why, but the crypt really is fascinating place to visit.
